2003

Famous wine growers of Barolo and Barbaresco

Here is a report on cutting-edge producers in the Piedmont, Italy. In mid-December 2002, I visited three growers around Alba:

Marchesi di Grésy

At Marchesi di Grésy, the "cellarmaster" received us - a group of French tourists. His name is Jeffrey Chilcott; he is from New Zealand. Stephano, his colleague at La Spinetta, was present too.

The owner lives in Milano.

Jeffrey said 2002 was a very difficult year.

Please find below my tasting notes:

Nebbiolo Martinenga

The 2001 Langhe Nebbiolo Martinenga does not come in contact with oak. It presents very good value (at Euro 10.5 at the estate): a nose of strawberry and cherry, with a hint of flower; a palate of cherry and fur, balanced.

The 2001 Merlot is a new product. It tastes of the international style as you would guess: very well made, technological; a nose with much burnt oak, lead pencil, fruit; the burnt flavour encumbers the silky mouthfeel.

Barrels at Marchesi di Grésy

1999 Barbaresco Martinenga is very nice (even when I came back to it at the end of the wine tasting event): a nose with mint, rose, plum; the palate is harmonious, with fruit, prune pit, and balance

1997 Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga smells of peat and kirsch; the palate is Barbaresco-typical, tannic and yet harmonious

1996 Barbaresco Cayun Martinenga has a bouquet of liquorice, fruit brandy, kirsch; the palate is evolved, fine, fresh, with a strange note on the finish; the aftertaste is a bit hard

1986 Barbaresco Cayun Martinenga is splendid - it smells of rose, leather, mushroom, toffee, rhubarb tart; tannins are velvety, the mouthfeel is fine, the alcohol is much less felt than in the younger Barbarescos

Here is a nice overview of the Barbaresco appellation.

Other reviews on Italian wines are available here:

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