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French white wine values tasted in 2003

The selected vibrant bottlings have given me much pleasure for the price. I have purchased them again for personal consumption. Featured values include four bottlings from Burgundy and five Muscadets.


Bourgogne aligoté — Robert et Raymond Jacob

4 € — 2001 — nose dominated by grapefruit zest - grapefruit, fresh, short

Muscadet-de-sèvre-et-maine-sur-lie wine labelMuscadet de sèvre et maine sur lie — Domaine de la Pépière - Marc Ollivier — Clos des Briords — Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

— 2001 — aroma of northern fruit - round on entry, with beads or carbon dioxide, fresh but less snappy than Brégeon 2001 (to be also compared to the 1999 vintage tasted in 2002)

Muscadet-de-sèvre-et-maine-sur-lie wine labelMuscadet de sèvre et maine sur lie — A.Michel Brégeon

— 2001 — more vigorous than Clos des Briords 2001 - lichee and iodine - a palate intense, beaded, lively

Muscadet-de-sèvre-et-maine-sur-lie wine labelMuscadet de sèvre et maine sur lie — Marc Ollivier - Domaine de la Pépière — Eden

5 € — 2000 — a weak nose - on the palate: hazelnut, no taste from grape! velvety, full and easy, fresh but lacking in sharpness (for a Muscadet), stands up straight but has declined (compared to the same vintage tasted one year earlier)

Bourgogne hautes côtes de nuits — Robert et Raymond Jacob[chardonnay]

5 € — 2001 — manipulated - oak dominates the palate, not much stuff, wide and fresh, fruit not ripe

Muscadet-de-sèvre-et-maine-sur-lie wine labelMuscadet de sèvre et maine sur lie — A.Michel Brégeon

— 1996 — more complex than 2000, 2001, or 2002 - shell, lichee, apple, green grapefruit - even more intense than 2000, 2001 and 2002, seashell, lichee, apple, green grapefruit, fresh - long, lime, seashell

Touraine wine labelTouraine — Clos Roche Blanche — Sauvignon - n°2

— 2001 — a great purity - a varietal nose with exotic fruit (starfruit), a minerally note, and a hint of oxidation - the variety also shows in the mouth, grapefruit, zest, pear, apple, plant, almond, very intense, a minerally note, fresh with a straight hint - persistent, sandwich bread

Côtes-de-provence wine labelCôtes de provence — Château de Pourcieux — M. d’Espagnet — [rolle]

— 2001 — fat, a green note is not a problem, it shows the incomplete ripeness of the grapes, fresh, short

Muscadet de sèvre et maine sur lie — A.Michel Brégeon — Liger d’Or

— 1997 — a forceful nose, with grapefruit and apple - onctuous, with enormous intensity, the palate reminds of a ten-year-old Chablis, tropical fruit (with a hint of residual sugar), grapefruit, minerally, apple - tropical fruit lingers

Sauvignon de saint bris — William Fèvre

7 € — 2001 — a nose minerally, with peach, watermelon, red fruit, fresh-cut hedge - fruit explodes in the palate, intense, harmonious, minerally, peach, watermelon, grapefruit, lime, dense but short, fresh

Vouvray — François Pinon — Tradition (Demi-Sec) — [chenin]

9 € — 1993 — the nose minerally with citrus zet - the palate: with apple, onctuous (moelleux), wide, dry (from acidity), mandarin orange - citrus zet (steady but more mineral and less fruity than the same vintage tasted one year earlier)

Chablis — Vignoble Dampt — Vieilles Vignes — [chardonnay]

9 € — 2001 — very agreeable - intense, pear, apple, flower, honeysuckle, mildew - onctuous, fatter than other Chablis, grapefruit, apricot, apple, mildew, balanced with a moderate acidity (for a Chablis), a smoky note - toffee (you can compare it to a Ladoix tasted at the same age)

Chinon — Bernard Baudry — Croix Boissée [tuffeau blanc] — [chenin]

14 € — 2001 — grapefruit, herb tea, flower - grapefruit, herb tea, flower, palate-wide but fresh (more so than a Vouvray)


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